Off piste

Off piste skiing and snowboard­ing is, to many, the entire reason to come to Chamonix. Classic descents like the Pas de Chevre, with its wicked triptych of couloirs, are a challeng­ing and spectac­u­lar day for advanced powder­hounds, whilst the stunning Vallee Blanche is acces­si­ble if you’re compe­tent on a red run. Alway take a guide when ventur­ing off pisteChamonet has a really good overview of what’s on offer here, and books have been written on the subject, so I’m just going to do an overview here…

La Vallée Blanche

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Clouds over La Vallee Blanche

The famous Vallée Blanche off-piste classic is 17km long with a verti­cal descent of 2800m. Unbeliev­able views and true wild mountain environ­ment, it’s acces­si­ble by inter­me­di­ate skiers or board­ers, but you MUST take a guide as the poten­tial dangers are enormous, as are the crevasses. If there’s just one or two of you, you can join a guided group. Piste­hors has a good overview of the Vallée Blanche. It’s best to wait for a sunny day as the scenery is indescrib­ably spectac­u­lar, and photos don’t do it a shred of justice — it really is 360 degrees of wonder.

The state of the Vallée Blanche varies a lot through­out the year and the standard you need to be varies accord­ingly, but in general a compe­tent red run skier can do it. For snowboard­ers the standard is a little higher — you must be comfort­able with long traverses and there is a long flat run-out where you need to keep your speed up. Take a collapsi­ble ski pole in your backpack to prod yourself out of any sticky spots — if you don’t have one, we usually have a couple in the ski shed, or ask the guide to bring a spare for you to borrow.

It’s one of the most amazing days it’s possi­ble to have skiing from a lift, so do it if you possi­bly can!
More questions? Have a look at this very in-depth look at La Vallee Blanche from Chamonet

The Pas de Chevre

Another Chamonix classic descent, but unlike the Vallee Blanche, this is for advanced skiers and board­ers only. It has very steep couloirs which can also be rocky, and a section that must be abseiled. Accessed from the Grands Montets, three paral­lel couloirs lead to amazing powder fields with beauti­ful views over the valley, before a spectac­u­lar run right below the massive north face of the Dru, and a final (tricky) exit onto the Mer de Glacé. In the right condi­tions it’s indis­putably one of the best lift-accessed off-piste runs in the world.

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Pas de Chevre

You can get see the exit couloir from the lower section of the Vallee Blanche — you do the same short steep hike for both of them, skiing back to Chamonix on the long winding track known locally as the “James Bond Run” — so if you’re think­ing of doing both, it’s a good place to take a look at it. As with every­thing, much depends on current condi­tions and your guide will be able to advise you on what’s best.

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Pas de Chevre Exit couloir, Feb 2012. Normally much more rocky than this.

Les Grands Montets has many other brilliant off-piste routes that don’t need any ski touring experi­ence, many of which will take you down past the glacier with incred­i­ble views.

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Le Tour is also very good  - the classic descent here is the Couloir des Posettes —  and Brevent & Flegere both have many hidden gems. A day out with a guide in any of these areas will be brilliant.

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Off-Piste snowboard­ing at Les Grands Montets

Courmayeur also has superb lift-accessed off piste, well worth check­ing out if condi­tions in Chamonix aren’t ideal. It’s also a great place for ski touring & split­board­ing if you’d like to take your adven­tures further afield — a guide will be able to recom­mend what’s best at the time you’re there as condi­tions are very variable.

Your guide will equip you with an avalanche beacon, and you should ideally have your own shovel and probe, and the knowl­edge of how to use them. I person­ally always take an ABS avalanche bag on lift-accessed off-piste, and you can hire these at various shops if you would like to take one.